I am in a nice little Sea Shack at Folly Beach, S.C., where I used to be a local. I am expecting some nice over-head and glassy sets (thanks Igor!) tomorrow morning.
Normally I just rent a board when I go surfing as my quiver is not what it used to be. Turns out the waves are so big that the local surf shops are not renting due to fear of being sued if someone drowns or something. Luckily, I had an old board stashed in my parent’s attic. I think this was the 3rd board I ever had. It was good back in the day. I spent this morning cleaning the old wax and insulation off of it. I found all the old repairs I made to it, including the re-built nose and back fin re-attachment, which was ripped out one time in Florida.
Anyway, cleaning it up took me back 15+ years. It is not in great shape, with several places where the glass has de-laminated from the foam, but it should do tomorrow. I do finding myself wishing it were about a foot longer. It will be a long paddle-out.
Disregard little Woodshedder. Poor guy, he put on his best pose and then found out he wouldn’t be taking the board out while the waves are big. He was mad, until he was beat up by the shore break, in waist deep water this evening. For this part of the East Coast, these waves are big.
Although I’m probably in better shape now than I was when I used to surf every day, I’m pretty sure that first paddle out will be interesting, to say the least.
I have no idea what the market will do tomorrow. And for one day, I’m not going to be thinking about it.
***Update***
A local blogger is taking some nice pictures of the swell…This one is from today.
Good for you.
What Yogi said! Enjoy
Hey Wood,
Sounds like it should be fun. I hope you’ll be able to catch a few.
I didn’t grow up in a area where I could learn to surf when I was young. But during frequent visits to Hawaii in my 40’s, I did learn how to body surf, sans board of any kind.
Since then I’ve tried board surfing, but just can’t seem to get the hang of it. Unfortunately for me, there’s really not many places to body surf here on the Big Island as most of the shore is rocky, but I still like to go to Oahu to body surf.
So I can definitely relate to your upcoming adventure.
Hang ten!
dude, nice … enjoy 😛 😀
im in mt p – surfed iop yest- from long island- funny to see decent waves here every way too infrequently and everyone freak out
pdf, I used to surf Bert’s Break, back in the day. I hope you made it out this morning. Not as big, but nice and clean.